Next week, the Association of the watch industry decide to tighten the
"Swiss made". Some manufacturers in the low and mid-priced call the
proposal as a dangerous existence.
On the face of a genuine Swiss Watch emblazoned the words "Swiss
Made". The unsuspecting owner will assume that the watch was made in
Switzerland. Far from it: The case may come from Asia, the bracelet
from Italy, the dial from France - and the only movement from
Switzerland. This is legal under current rules: Only the ticking watch
of the heart must come from Switzerland, this country must be turned
on and controlled.
A movement is considered Swiss if the Swiss components make up at
least 50% of the value - without the cost to be considered for the
assembly. For some time, industry leaders insist the Swatch Group,
Richemont (Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Vacheron) and Rolex to a
tightening of the "Swiss made". Independent luxury brands such as
Girard-Perregaux Parmigiani or aim in the same direction. More and
more companies are entering the market and want to produce watches
with the famous "Swiss made". To keep costs low and profits high, you
can produce as much abroad.
To protect themselves against the dilution of the "Swiss made", does
the Federation of the Swiss watch industry at the next meeting on 28
June decide to increase the share of manufacturing in mechanical Swiss
watches at 80% for electronic and quartz watches to 60% of production
costs.
Against such a complete revision of the "Regulation on the use of the
name for Swiss watches" of 23 December 1971 (SR 232 119) is forming
resistance. Opposition spokesman Ronnie Bernheim is on the watch
company Mondaine, which produces the successful station watch for the
wrist. Other watch companies in the middle and lower price range are
also firmer against the "Swiss made" swiss watches, including Oris,
TAG Heuer, the Movado Group, Festina, Candino, Roventa, Titoni, Gucci,
Walca and Ronda (quartz movements).
"We are working to form a group - a community of interests Pro Swiss
made", said Ronnie Bernheim. He described the proposal as a "luxury
Lex", the disadvantage at factory. "I guess that our station watch
will cost under the new requirements in the future instead of 150 Fr
200-300 francs a shop," says Bernheim. Moreover, forcing the 80% rule
to buy abroad cheap watch housings in order to keep the 80% value
share of Swiss watches manufacturers can. The quality will not improve
with the arbitrary 80% rule. Moreover, 15 million were missing in
Switzerland watch case, which had been previously imported.
"Wrong," replied Nicolas Hayek. "We are entirely the Swatch ago in
Switzerland - and we are able to maintain the favorable price," Of the
25 million watches per year being exported from Switzerland, were
about 14 million Swatch whose housings are all manufactured in
Switzerland would. The remaining 11 million housings of switch watches
would be made at least 40% in Switzerland. With high automation and a
lot of technical know-how could be produced in Switzerland at
affordable prices. And for the development of capacity for a
transitional period was provided by four to five years. "The new rules
will bring 2000-4000 extra jobs in the watch industry," Hayek
underestimated. "Out of 600 companies in the association watches are
only eight against it."
The revision of the Regulation must be decided by the Federal
Council. Ronnie Bernheim is determined to fight with all means against
it. "Otherwise we would be pressed against the wall and would have to
lay off employees in Switzerland," says Bernheim.
