WATCHES - GLOSSARY
A / h
Semi-oscillations per hour of the Unruh
Amplitude (half cycle)
Amplitude of the balance
3 ATM
Watch this label have to be resistant to perspiration, water droplets, rain, etc. and against immersion in water for 30 minutes at a depth of 1 m and may not be used in conditions where water pressure and temperatures vary considerably.
5 ATM
Watch this label have not only the requirements for 3 ATM be resistant to immersion and vigorous agitation in water (swimming).
10 ATM
Watches with this designation are considered watches and in addition to the requirements for 3 ATM 5 ATM and for temporary immersion, provided 2 hours, can be used.
Elevator shaft
Shaft to the outer end of the crown is attached. The elevator shaft connects to the movement.
Self winding
A clock with automatic winding uses the centrifugal force and gravity as an energy source. A semi-circular weight, rotor or flywheel called pulls the arm movements of the wearer of the watch spring. Because an automatic clock constantly self raising, the tension spring has one end hook instead a slip clutch. When fully wound slips to the spring, and a spanning is not possible.
Chronograph or Chronometer
Next to the time this clock has a timing mechanism (stopwatch). A chronograph is easy to identify the additional handles with which the chronograph hands is initiated, stopped and reset to zero. This hand rotates once per minute, so as a second hand, which in turn is to be found in a small subsidiary dial. Other small hand counting the minutes, the hours and half hours or even tenths of a second.
Chronometer
Literally translated: Timekeeper. In today's meaning, it is a particularly accurate to mechanical clock with a deviation of not more than + / - five seconds a day. Chronometers are usually a transitional certificate of official and independent Swiss agency for continuity testing COSC delivered.
Complication
Addition to a clockwork mechanism e.g. Chronograph, second time zone, power reserve etc.
Côtes de Genève
Also Geneva stripes. Elaborate ribbon-shaped ornament of bridges, plates and bars situated in the factory.
Barrel
The barrel is the coiled spring that stores the energy and the clock ensures a power reserve of 36 to 45 hours. The mainspring is wound via the crown by hand (hand-winding watch) or by the movement of the flywheel (rotor) with the automatic clock.
Spring Bar
Small, metallic, spring loaded pin, which is clamped between the housing and impulses to which the strap is attached.
Gear
Finely adjusting label that indicates the time difference of the clock for 24 hours. Depending on the quality and wear conditions, differences of daily passage of up to several seconds per day occur.
Power Reserve
Period of the clock when fully wound to a stop
Glucydur
Very high-quality metal alloy that is used for the production of first quality unrest.
Guilloché
As guilloché refers to a surface refinement of watch dials, ornaments and patterns shown are of intersecting lines (straight and curved), which will be engraved by machine or by hand. One finds this ostentatious decoration mainly on dials and casings made of silver or gold, so mostly only in quality watches segment.
Manual Wind
A hand-wound clock is wound by hand. Usually daily. In this case by turning the crown the spring is loaded, the energy drives the mechanical gearing. The power reserve is on average 36 to 40 hours. A hand-wound clock should be wound regularly so that the spring during the day has the highest torque to compensate for vibrations and the resulting friction.
Helium Valve
The helium valve is specifically designed for professional divers. If professional divers for several days at a great depth stay under water, they work with a diving bell. Such a diving bell is filled with a mixture of helium and oxygen. The helium molecules are lighter than air. When Auftauchvorgang the helium molecules penetrate thus not as fast in the case of the clock, so that it comes to an atmospheric pressure, the glass and glass gasket can blow out the clock. To avoid this, the helium valve is opened during the Auftauchvorgangs so that the helium can quickly escape from the watch case. The helium valve should be closed upon contact with water, to ensure complete water tightness.
Hesalite
Watch crystals from Hesalite. The material is easy to machine and polish. The benefit to the watch wearer is the high impact strength.
Incabloc
Brand name of a Swiss shock (see Shock)
IPG plating
The IPG plating is currently the most durable gold plating. It is not in Micron - measured - ie thickness. Is an ion-plating takes place in a high vacuum. Here, the ion pop at high speed on the steel case and penetrate deeply. wherein the noble metal layer connects with the base material of stainless steel, and it is thinner than the galvanic process and extremely durable.
Jewel
English for Rubin (see Rubin)
Caliber
Designated sooner the movement diameter, measured in lines (one line = 2.256 mm), now a label from the manufacturer's name and a number, which makes the work uniquely assignable.
Small second
Second display, which is not from the dial center. This type of second requires a completely different plant construction.
Crown
Button for raising and directing the clock.
Jewel
(See Rubin)
Micron
Unit, 1/1000 mm, e.g. used in the gold plating.
Mineral glass
Mineral, mostly flat watch glass. Harder and less susceptible to scratching than plastic lenses.
Moon phase display
Display of 29 œ-day cycle of the moon using a dark blue disc, which is rotated by the Movement of the clock under the dial.
Nivarox
Alloy for the production of balance springs
PVD
PVD is the abbreviation for "physical vapor deposition" (also known as Vakuumionisation). Through the laborious process of Vakuumionisation can vaporize to a variety of materials, eg Steel, aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, tin, etc. The details here are ion particles from the original material of the clock by particles other material (usually also a different color) replaced. Compared with the conventional methods have the excellent with PVD-coated materials coating properties, it is the hardness of the surface to the 2 - to 4-fold increase of the hardness of hardened steel, in addition, the surface structure obtained.
Quartz watches
Watches with analog or digital display, whose work is crystal controlled. The analog watch: The division of time is done here by means of a quartz, which is rotated by a battery in vibrations. The time is represented analogously by electrically driven pointer. When the digital clock display in numbers is mostly done by liquid crystals.
Regulator
Dial arrangement for accurate readability: seconds and hours are decentralized, the minutes displayed centrally.
Revision
Cleaning of the movement. Here, the clock is cut, chemically cleaned and lubricated after assembly again. A review should be performed every 3-5 years to ensure the optimal functioning of the timepiece.
Rotor
(See Inertia)
Ruby
Synthetically produced gemstones, is used in the movement to reduce friction and wear as anchor stones and wheel bearings.
Sapphire Glass
Synthetic sapphire watch crystal. A sapphire crystal is due to the very high hardness, scratch-resistant but sensitive to impact.
Quick Fix (date)
Apparatus for the direct setting of the date, without having to continue to rotate the pointer over 24 hours.
Screw (fully threaded screw back)
Provided with a threaded base which is screwed into the watch case.
Screw (screw-in crown)
Special crown that can be screwed to better seal (used mainly in divers and sports watches)
Inertia (rotor)
By the natural movement of the arm is the flywheel in motion and draws as the mainspring of the automatic clock.
Coil spring (spiral)
The coil spring together with the balance, the oscillating system.
Super Luminova
Luminous material, which makes for easy reading in the dark, it can be found in some watches on hands, numerals or dots.
Tachymeter
The Tachymetereinteilung on the dial is used as a chronograph to measure the speed a car on a measured distance of 1 km. At the moment in which the vehicle performs the starting point of the measuring section, the chronograph is switched on and during the passage of the end point of the track again stopped. The indication of the pointer on the tachymeter scale is the speed in miles per hour. The rate over the entire test length must always be equal.
Watertightness
Is an unconditional waterproofness of a clock is not it. It depends on design, manufacturing precision and stability of the housing, gasket material, shape and thickness, type of stress and age. The water resistance is fundamentally a statement about the condition at the time of testing; sunlight hardens the glass seals, making them brittle. Unintentional blows bend the crown on the shaft. Sweat, shower and bath additives leach out the seals. There are also variations in temperature when bathing, washing dishes, sauna, sunbathing and the subsequent transition into the cool water. All these burdens should not be expected to watches and a "simple" watch she experiences every day. Go for these reasons at least 1 x per year as a watchmaker, and carry you leave a water resistance test. Do the same thing before every holiday, to ensure optimal water resistance. Watches are produced in five-bar strengths; 3 ATM 5 ATM, 10 ATM, 20 ATM, 33 ATM. The water resistance is noted on the caseback.
Main plate (PCB)
It bears the bridges and the various parts of the plant. The bottom plate and the bridges together the draft model, the actual skeleton of the movement.
Mainspring
Spring which stores the force which is necessary for the operation of the clock. It drives the movement.
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